The difference between the American and the English Foxhound?

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Claire: can somebody PLEASE explain the difference between the American Foxhound and the English Foxhound?
I need to take a quiz where we have to identify dogs of the Hound Group. We are provided with a picture and that’s it. I have every dog of the Hound Group memorized, but I am having trouble with the American Foxhound and the English Foxhound. Basically the only noticeable difference is that the English Foxhounds have somewhat thicker, stronger looking legs. Are there any other visible differences that I should take note of?

Answers and Views:

Answer by ☻Judgerz
I really like American Foxhounds, they always seem stringier and taller in pictures, while English Foxhounds are more blocky. It’s much easier to tell if you put the two pictures next to each other.

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  1. deputydawg4953@sbcgl says

    American Foxhounds are taller and leaner. English are a bit thicker and shorter. Not much difference aside from that, but I am not well versed in this breed.They seem to have the same coat and color,but I may be wrong.

  2. aussie mom says

    American Foxhound Breed Standard
    Hound Group
    Skull–Should be fairly long, slightly domed at occiput, with cranium broad and full. Ears–Ears set on moderately low, long, reaching when drawn out nearly, if not quite, to the tip of the nose; fine in texture, fairly broad, with almost entire absence of erectile power–setting close to the head with the forward edge slightly inturning to the cheek–round at tip. Eyes– Eyes large, set well apart, soft and houndlike–expression gentle and pleading; of a brown or hazel color. Muzzle–Muzzle of fair length–straight and square-cut–the stop moderately defined. Defects–A very flat skull, narrow across the top; excess of dome; eyes small, sharp and terrier like, or prominent and protruding; muzzle long and snippy, cut away decidedly below the eyes, or very short. Roman-nosed, or upturned, giving a dish-face expression. Ears short, set on high, or with a tendency to rise above the point of origin.

    Neck and Throat–Neck rising free and light from the shoulders, strong in substance yet not loaded, of medium length. The throat clean and free from folds of skin, a slight wrinkle below the angle of the jaw, however, is allowable. Defects–A thick, short, cloddy neck carried on a line with the top of the shoulders. Throat showing dewlap and folds of skin to a degree termed "throatiness."

    Shoulders, Chest and Ribs
    Shoulders sloping–clean, muscular, not heavy or loaded–conveying the idea of freedom of action with activity and strength. Chest should be deep for lung space, narrower in proportion to depth than the English hound–28 inches (girth) in a 23-inch hound being good. Well-sprung ribs–back ribs should extend well back–a three-inch flank allowing springiness.

    Back and Loins
    Back moderately long, muscular and strong. Loins broad and slightly arched. Defects–Very long or swayed or roached back. Flat, narrow loins.

    Forelegs and Feet
    Forelegs–Straight, with fair amount of bone. Pasterns short and straight. Feet–Fox-like. Pad full and hard. Well-arched toes. Strong nails. Defects–Straight, upright shoulders, chest disproportionately wide or with lack of depth. Flat ribs. Out at elbow. Knees knuckled over forward, or bent backward. Forelegs crooked. Feet long, open or spreading.

    Hips, Thighs, Hind Legs and Feet
    Hips and thighs, strong and muscled, giving abundance of propelling power. Stifles strong and well let down. Hocks firm, symmetrical and moderately bent. Feet close and firm. Defects–Cowhocks, or straight hocks. Lack of muscle and propelling power. Open feet.

    Set moderately high; carried gaily, but not turned forward over the back; with slight curve; with very slight brush. Defects–A long tail, Teapot curve or inclined forward from the root. Rat tail, entire absence of brush.

    A close, hard, hound coat of medium length. Defects–A short thin coat, or of a soft quality.

    Dogs should not be under 22 or over 25 inches. Bitches should not be under 21 or over 24 inches measured across the back at the point of the withers, the hound standing in a natural position with his feet well under him.

    Any color.


    Should be of full size, but by no means heavy. Brow pronounced, but not high or sharp. There should be a good length and breadth, sufficient to give in a dog hound a girth in front of the ears of fully 16 inches. The nose should be long (4½ inches) and wide, with open nostrils. Ears set on low and lying close to the cheeks. Most English hounds are "rounded" which means that about 1½ inches is taken off the end of the ear. The teeth must meet squarely, either a pig-mouth (overshot) or undershot being a disqualification.

    Must be long and clean, without the slightest throatiness, not less than 10 inches from cranium to shoulder. It should taper nicely from shoulders to head, and the upper outline should be slightly convex.

    The Shoulders should be long and well clothed with muscle, without being heavy, especially at the points. They must be well sloped, and the true arm between the front and the elbow must be long and muscular, but free from fat or lumber. Chest and Back Ribs–The chest should girth over 31 inches in a 24-inch hound, and the back ribs must be very deep.

    Back and Loin
    Must both be very muscular, running into each other without any contraction between them. The couples must be wide, even to raggedness, and the topline of the back should be absolutely level, the Stern well set on and carried gaily but not in any case curved over the back like a squirrel's tail. The end should taper to a point and there should be a fringe of hair below. The Hindquarters or propellers are required to be very strong, and as endurance is of even greater consequence than speed, straight stifles are preferred to those much bent as in a Greyhound. Elbows set quite straight, and neither turned in nor out are a sine qua non. They must be

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